Attending a McDonald Observatory “Star Party”

Visitors center at McDonald Observatory

Located in the Davis Mountains near Fort Davis, Texas, the McDonald Observatory is a research and education facility of the University of Texas. The observatory offers “Star Parties” to the public Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays throughout the year which are bookable online for a reasonable fee. While the observatory web site states that Star Parties often fill up months in advance, the permissible group size is large and I found 100+ spots still available several days before our Friday night reservation. Our January 17 date no doubt had something to do with the lighter crowd, but we chose the time of year deliberately to avoid crowds…and the sweltering peak-season temperatures in our ultimate destination, Big Bend National Park.

We were excited at weather forecasts predicting clear skies for the night of our Star Party, but that excitement turned to concern a couple days prior when we woke to find the forecast suddenly calling for high winds up to 45 mph. Yikes! Not what we had in mind, especially on a cold mountaintop at night. I immediately called the observatory and was able to change our reservations to Saturday night. It turned out to be a good thing that I called so quickly: Despite all those vacancies showing earlier, a sign on the door as we entered the visitor center Saturday night stated that the party was now fully booked. I talked to fellow Indian Lodge guests later who had been turned away.

With the restaurant at Indian Lodge closed, we decided to eat at the StarDate Café at the Observatory. As recommended in the email confirming our booking, we arrived an hour early since we wanted to eat before the Star Party. It’s a good thing we did, too. We snagged the last table and were able to get our dinner order in just before the line grew long and wait time jumped to 30, then 40 minutes. The café stays open for the first hour of the party, so guests arriving after us could come back to the café to eat during the party, but we were happy to eat and be done with it ahead of time. I slipped into the ladies’ room while we waited to pull on a pair of silk long underwear, an extra layer I was glad to have later as temperatures plunged outside. (I’d been worried it would be overheated in the cafe, but it was actually pretty chilly inside when we arrived.) The café opens to a large terrace with views of the observatory domes and quite a few tables that would probably be great in the summer or a mild winter day, but were out of the question for dining on a January night.

Right at 7pm, observatory staff announced the beginning of the Star Party and we were instructed to go outside to an open amphitheater for an orientation lecture.

Pre-viewing introduction at the outdoor amphitheater. Those stone benches are cold!

The initial lecture was brief after which we were invited to either go straight to the ten telescopes set up in the viewing park or remain for a more detailed lecture on constellations. We sat in the back to get ahead of the exiting mob and opted to go straight to the telescopes. We were glad we did. The speaker advised us that the domes which house the largest telescopes are particularly popular, so we headed to those first before more people arrived. We quickly made our way through all ten scopes, moving on if a line was long. There are telescopes of all sizes and shapes. We were there the night before a full moon, which reduced the visibility of the stars and constellations so more than one telescope was focused on the moon, the most powerful taking in just a portion of the moon and bringing its craters and peaks into sharp view. Another telescope that took in the entire moon was so bright that I had a dark after-image in one eye for at least ten minutes! Other telescopes were focused on the brightest stars since others were drowned out by the brilliant light of the moon. Still, it was cool to see things like the cloudy nebula in the sword of Orion and a pair of bi-colored twin stars. Overall star viewing was a little disappointing because of the extremely bright moon, but it was still fun and we had a full lunar eclipse to look forward to the next night in Big Bend National Park, so it was hard to complain. We were just finishing up at the last telescope when the lecture let out and a big crowd streamed into the viewing area and we realized we had had no idea what a long line was. I counted several lines that had quickly ballooned from 5 or so people to 22 or more.

Using one of the more unusual telescopes in the viewing park

The visitors center remains open during the Star Party so people can warm up, get refreshments, etc. A short film runs in a loop the entire time, there’s a gift shop, toilets and a child-friendly small museum.

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Practical info:

Cold is a real issue at the McDonald Observatory as temperatures at the observatory elevations (6300-6800 ft) can be much colder than below and the approximately 2-hour Star Parties take place mostly outside. Wear layers, hats and gloves, and the observatory encourages viewers to bring blankets which can be left in cars and retrieved if needed. Blankets or long coats are extra nice for sitting on the cold stone benches in the amphitheater. The Star Parties take place at the Rebecca Gale Telescope Park at the observatory and do not use the research telescopes higher up the mountain. Those telescopes are available on “special viewing nights” scheduled periodically throughout the year.

Prices for Star Parties are $12/adult; $10/military, 65+, and UT staff and students ; $$8/child 6-12; and, free for children under 6. Make reservations online for Star Parties, Twilight Programs, Day passes, Solar Viewings and special events.

The StarDate Café is located on site and serves sandwiches, quesadillas, tacos, snacks and drinks. The observatory recommends Star Party guests arrive an hour early if planning to eating there since crowds can be large.

Indian Lodge in Davis Mountains State Park, Texas

Indian Lodge in Davis Mountains State Park; the original adobe received a gleaming coat of white paint in last summer’s remodel.

Deciding where to stay during our much-anticipated McDonald Observatory “Star Party” came down to a historic hotel in downtown Fort Davis or Indian Lodge in Davis Mountains State Park. Highly recommended by friends, closer to the observatory, located within the state park where we wanted to hike, and newly refurbished as of summer 2018, we opted for Indian Lodge.

Built to look like a multi-level pueblo village, Indian Lodge opened to the public in 1939. The lodge boasts a big two-fireplace den/game room, a lovely pool and a restaurant with hit-and-miss opening hours. Our room on the upper level had windows on two sides and a now-blocked adobe fireplace in one corner. The ceiling consisted of large beams and twigs. Just what I had in mind!

Indian Lodge guests are welcome to build or stoke a fire in the “den” and make use of the games and tables.

Our first afternoon, we used the trailhead at the end of the parking area nearest our room to access the Indian Lodge Trail. The 1.5 hour hike along the ridge offers sweeping views back down to the valley where the lodge sits on one side and far beyond on the other side to where we could see the mountaintop observatory domes in the distance. High winds up to 45mph whipped across the unprotected ridge. We’d been scheduled for a “Star Party” at the observatory that night, but managed to change it to the following night to avoid the windy weather passing through. We returned to the road leading to the lodge via the Montezuma Quail Trail. The Texas Parks & Wildlife Department provides excellent trail maps with photos. The lodge restaurant was closed that night so we drove into nearby Fort Davis for Mexican food at Cueva de Leon, a casual spot that’s been in business for decades and was on a list provided by the lodge. The place is nothing fancy (in keeping with the rest of Fort Davis), but solid and traditional. It’s BYOB and we picked up a 6-pack of craft beer at the small shop across the street. The food brought back memories of similar restaurants of my childhood.

On the advice of the super-friendly lodge staff, we drove up to begin a hike on part of the Skyline Scenic Trail at the top rather than hike up along the switchback road. Views from vehicle-accessible lookouts are nice as was the hike, but it is very close to the road.

Indian Lodge boasts a nice pool…but it was way too cold in January for us to try it out.

Back at the lodge, we made use of iron tables and chairs on a terrace we shared with two other rooms for lunch-with-a-view before heading off to spend the afternoon in the town of Alpine (a 35 minute drive from Indian Lodge). We enjoyed leisurely following a brochure-guided walking tour of the historic town, stopping near the end for a spelt chocolate chip cookie break at a clearly-popular Taste and See Bakery.

Nighttime was reserved for the McDonald Observatory Star Party that I’ll write up in my next post.

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Practical info:

Reservations are available at Indian Lodge via the Texas Parks & Wildlife web site. Book well in advance, especially for holidays. Free wi-fi is available in the den and lobby area, but did not reach to our room (or any of the other rooms that we heard of). We did not have cell phone reception in the lodge (which sits in a valley) although staff cheerfully offered me use of their land line to follow up on a missing credit card. We did get enough signal for texts and some emails (and so probably calls as well, although we didn’t try) on high points of our hikes. There is a coffee maker in the room, but no fridge or microwave. Staff let us use the full-size fridge in the dining area for food we’d brought in ice chests. Our 1-queen bed room cost $259.60 for two nights ($230 + $29.90 tax). Camping sites are also available to reserve.

Trails in the park are well-marked and fun to hike although the ones within walking distance of the lodge and camp sites are not super extensive. There’s a 75-mile scenic loop for driving that has other trails along the way. A bear was spotted on one of these the week before we arrived. We saw small birds and hawks, but no large animals on our hikes, although there are bear, mountain lions, javelina and deer.

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