First daytrip in the Puglia “heel” of Italy: Martina Franca, Cisternino and Ostuni

So many pretty streets in Martina Franca!

It’s fun daytripping around the Puglia region of Italy from our trullo in Alberobello. There are so many interesting options in easy driving distance. Scanning the map and reading up on some favorites suggested by our host, we decided to make Ostuni the ultimate destination for our first such explore, with stops at Martina Franca and Cisternino along the way.

In just under thirty minutes, we parked in a public lot in Martina Franca then walked a short distance uphill to Piazza Roma, a triangular plaza in front of the 17th Palazzo Ducale. We enjoyed browsing the elaborately-painted public rooms of this former palace of local dukes along with a temporary art exhibit that was in the process of being installed.

Martina Franca: clockwise from top left: via Vittorio Emanuele, interior of the Palazzo Ducale, the cathedral, Piazza Roma, at Piazza XX Settembre in the center (with the Church of St. Anthony of Padua visible through the sculpture)

After the Palazzo Ducale, we headed south out of Piazza Roma to walk the length of broad Piazza XX Settembre and beyond to the Church of Saint Anthony of Padua. The small church and avenue-like Piazza XX Settembre are worth a visit, but the charming streets of old Martina Franca called us back to cross Piazza Roma and head north along via Vittorio Emanuele. Treble clefs, musical notes and sweeping bars of music were strung above the pretty pedestrian street. Martina Franca hosts several music festivals and these may have been related.

Much of the charm of Martina Franca is just wandering the picturesque streets of its old town. Shops, cafes and restaurants enticed, but we decided to resist eating until later in our day. We couldn’t miss the Basilica of San Martino on Piazza Plebiscito and the nearby beautiful semi-circular Piazza Maria Immacolata. Fourteen sights in Martina Franca, including the Basilica and the Piazza Ducale, are covered by a free audioguide in five languages available by QR code on signs in front of each site. Very handy!

Piazza Immacolata in Martina Franca

Cisternino is a short 15 minute drive northeast of Martina Franca. A beautiful town of cream-colored two-story balconied buildings and matching stone-paved roads, Cisternino sits 394m above sea level in the Itria Valley. Again, so much of the appeal is just wandering. Picturesque narrow alleys branch off larger streets flanked by paved sidewalks. Among its churches, the oldest is Chijsa Ggrénne or the Church of Saint Nicolas of Patara. The 13th century church sits on the ruins of a 10-11th century church. We stopped in to admire the simple white interior and the glass viewing hole in the floor of the aisle looking down to where eleven ancient tombs were excavated.

Around Cisternino (bottom photos are lunch at La Pignata
and the viewing window in the floor of the Church of Saint Nicolas of Patara

Down a pretty alley, we chose an outdoor table at La Pignata to enjoy a simple but tasty lunch of crostini-topped zuppa di legumi (vegetable soup rich with chickpeas and beans), salad and a plate of bombette, the local specialty of small meat rolls wrapped in bacon and stuffed with various cheeses, nuts and cured meats.

We drove west through farmland groves of ancient olive trees and low stone walls to our final destination for the day, Ostuni. The blue Adriatic Sea spread out below the white walls of the hilltop town. We parked below and climbed to an arched gateway to begin our ramble through the town. Less refined but rustically pretty buildings lined the steep narrow streets and steps of Ostuni. Shops offered souvenirs and a selection of the beautiful local linens. Sweeping views of the valley and sea below peeked between buildings and beyond terraces as we made our way to the 15th century Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta. Ornate ceiling paintings topped the interior of marble and inlaid stone.

Ostuni, with caffé leccese and pasticciotto at the bottom right

Heading back downhill to Piazza della Liberta, we chose a stylish outdoor table at Garibaldi to try their version of a local specialty called pasticciotto, a wide, thick, brick shaped pastry filled with cream, and caffé leccese (also called “caffé alla Salentina”). This drink is basically coffee, almonds and ice. It’s served in two glasses: a traditional espresso and a glass of almond syrup or sweetened almond milk with a few ice cubes. We poured the espresso into the iced almond syrup to create a delicious and refreshing iced coffee. What a delightful end to a great daytrip!

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