ASIA Archives - Page 2 of 10

Bhutan!

We’d been considering a trip to Bhutan for some time, but hesitated because of the requirement that western tourists only visit with government-approved tour guides. The minimum cost for travel to Bhutan is a set $250pp/day, a not insignificant amount for the constant presence of a guide, something we generally don’t like and actively avoid. But still, we heard great things about Bhutan and we’d be in neighboring Nepal, so why not?

I decided a relatively short 4-night stay would be a good way to dip our toes into Bhutan and see how we liked the mandatory guide set up. If the country really entranced us, we could always come back for a longer stay another time. Government-approved guides were an unknown quantity, so I decided to book through kimkim, a company founded by the creators of TripAdvisor and other travel apps. Kimkim brokers local guides and I felt comfortable using them. Kimkim put me in touch with Pelden who was generally good about communicating with me and tailoring a trip to our interests, which meant adding a visit to Bhutan’s first craft brewery/brewpub, coincidentally founded by a former classmate of Pelden.

Our 1h20m DrukAir flight from Kathmandu to Bhutan gave us our second flight past Mount Everest and it was spectacular. A seat on the left side of the plane is the way to go for this special experience.

Flying past Mount Everest is an experience of a lifetime

As promised, we were met in the modern, but traditionally-styled, Paro airport by our guide, Kezang (Pelden’s associate), who took us to a waiting SUV and our driver, Tashi. In no time, we were at our first stop, Tachogang Lhakhang iron chain bridge across the Paro River to a nearby monastery and hermit cave. Foot traffic was no longer allowed across the old bridge, so we used an adjacent newer bridge. The bridge and buildings were interesting, but I have to say that, after Nepal, we were most struck by the wonderfully clean river and fresh air. Such a welcome change!

From the bridge, we drove to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan for lunch at a tourist restaurant. This turned out to be one of the downsides of the whole curated experience in Bhutan: buffet restaurants geared towards tourists. They’re over-priced considering how very cheap things are when you can finally break free of you “handlers” and just kind of boring, although clean and modern. Our hotel, Thimphu Towers, sits on the main square in Thimphu and we had a great view of the square and central clock tower.

View of the main square in Thimphu from our hotel room

The room was large and comfortable, our only complaint with the room had to do with the extremely loud Indian family that arrived next door and proceeded to stand in the hall talking loudly, all while the father of the clan talked above the din on his phone. Good grief, go into your room! [India has greatly helped Bhutan develop and the Bhutanese clearly admire their benefactors. We visited a very interesting museum highlighting the relationship between the two countries and Kezang explained how most Bhutanese who get college degrees do so in India. Indian citizens, unlike most of the rest of the world, can visit Bhutan freely and without guides. They sometimes descend in large numbers and seem to really congregate around Bhutanese rivers. We decided they must be even more enchanted by the novelty of clean running water than we were.]

We wanted to try local beer, and were happy when Kezang led us to a nearby grocery store for locals where we bought a couple of bottles for a fraction of the price asked at our hotel. After wandering the streets a little, we enjoyed the bottles in our room, windows open to enjoy the view. Dinner was another uninspiring restaurant in our hotel. Nice, but hardly “authentic.” We needed to talk to Kezang about dining options.

Our first full day in Bhutan started out at the gleaming white memorial Chorten Stupa, a white structure, circled clockwise by a constant stream of worshippers. We were amused when Kezang, a young married man with a small child described how he lived with his parents and his in-laws and, when he worked at a prior job, he would drop off the two sets of parents at this stupa on his way to work, leaving them there until he headed home at the end of the work day when he’d pick them up again. We asked how they felt about his arrangement, and he indicated a group of older people under an open-air shelter to one side of the stupa and said they liked it. Apparently, this is social time for retired Bhutanese.

Later, we visited the 169 ft. tall Buddha Dordenma statue (which holds 1000 Buddha statues and a temple inside) before hiking the adjacent Kuenselphadrang Nature Park. The hiking trail was well-groomed and easy and we trailed along behind Kezang in his traditional clothes, or visited with him, when the path widened, about life in Bhutan. Kezang was particularly knowledgeable about Buddhism and was a font of stories and legend. His English was good, if not great, with an accent that sometimes caused confusion. David had a hard time, in particular, understanding the words “sentient beings”– which came up a lot in Kezang’s explanations– and which had me whispering the phrase to him repeatedly.

Note: I’m pasting our itinerary and quote as I received them from kimkim verbatim at the bottom of this post. Most things we did as outlined. Occasionally, we swapped timing and we changed one destination entirely, swapping a monk village for a hike to the mountaintop Tango Buddhist University which we really enjoyed.

David and I with Kezang (left) and Tashi (right) (and a group of Buddhist monks and friend to the far left) at Tango Buddhist University

The path and wooden rail cart track to Tango Buddhist University

At our request, Kezang tried to choose restaurants with a bit more local feel, but he was clearly restrained by the parameters of the whole Bhutanese foreign tourist set up. We did share one dinner with him and Tashi in an otherwise empty restaurant which remained open just for us since we’d gotten in late. Since David and I usually ate alone, that dinner gave us a chance to visit more with the two men. Tashi spoke very little English, so Kezang translated.

As with all things travel, I think, some things exceeded expectations and some were less exciting or interesting than they sounded. A much-anticipated visit to see the national animal of Bhutan, the takin, at an animal reserve was fun and interesting, but the rare animals remained at some distance from the fence separating us.

The legend explaining the takin has its oringins in the 15th century when Lam Drukpa Kunley also referred to as “The Divine Madman” arrived in Bhutan from Tibet. After preaching to local people, they asked him to perform a miracle. He agreed, on the condition that they would feed him a massive lunch of a whole cow and a whole goat, which they did. The Tibetan saint devoured the flesh of both the animals, leaving the bones. He then affixed the head of the goat to the body of the cow and uttered a mantra. The animal instantly sprung to life and began grazing on the meadows. He named the animal “Dong Gyem Tsey” (takin).

The Divine Madman is even more famous for his outrageous behavior and sexual exploits. Because of this, large, explicit phalluses adorn many public buildings and homes across Bhutan. The practice raises Western eyebrows and had us laughing and snapping lots of photos. We found it hard to imagine coming home to a front door framed, by giant “spouting” male organs… all in the name of religion, no less.

Special artwork frames the front door of a Bhutanese home

We moved from Thimphu to Metta Resort in Paro for the last night of our stay. The grounds were nice and new and the staff lovely, but the room was a little on the motel side, although new and pleasantly decorated in the local style. The place felt remote, down a long dirt road, seemingly an odd place to house us. It seemed part of a planned new tourist area that wasn’t built out yet. The walls of our room were thin, too, and we listened with aggravation to the people next door to us literally scream, apparently in the course of a phone call.

Particular highlights for us included a stop by Bhutan’s first craft brewpub where David and I enjoyed a long visit with the brewer. David’s been transcribing his recorded interview and I hope he’ll get it posted soon. (We’re behind on all of this, obviously, since we’ve been traveling so much, both for the 3 months of this trip and subsequent trips that now (10/20) have us in Europe for another few months.)

David and brewer Dorji Gyeltshen at Namgay Artisanal Brewery

Another favorite stop for us was at the local archery field. Archery is hugely popular in Bhutan and it’s an activity local men participate in much as Frenchmen spend their time playing boules or petanque. When Kezang saw how interested we were, we adjusted things to linger on the small bleachers watching groups of men shooting at targets placed on opposite ends of a long field. After everyone in the group shot, they’d cross the field en masse to shoot back at the target from which they’d just come, sipping beer and chatting between rounds. Kezang told us he enjoyed this pastime as well, had an expensive bow… and had to cut back once the baby came to appease a wife less-than-happy with his frequent outing with the boys given their new family responsibilities.

The absolute highlight of our Bhutan visit was a hike to iconic Tiger’s Nest monastery. (See top photo.) This steep hike was saved for last to allow our bodies to adjust to the elevation. We’d also been taking medication to guard against any altitude sickness ruining our trip. Unfortunately, weather forecasts called for rain on that final day, our one and only shot at Tiger’s Nest. I went to bed resigned to the possibility –and actually expecting– the hike would be canceled. Kezang remained positive and seemed to think the whole idea of me checking weather forecasts was funny (even the one made specifically by and for Tiger’s Nest).

Happily, we woke to a gorgeous day the next morning. (I guess Kezang knew what he was talking about.) Tashi drove us to a sort of “base camp” where we passed through vendor stalls and crossed a field of horses and donkeys for hire to begin our hike. The hike took hours, with one stop at a café along the way for a light lunch before going on. Tiger’s Nest sits over 10,000 above sea level and the thin air was noticeable. My muscles felt the steep climb, but it was more a matter of getting lungfuls of air that seemed to have nothing to it. Give me oxygen! Still, the view along the way was spectacular and we made the ascent more quickly that Kezang expected.

At the top, we were treated to one of those unforgettable travel moments. Upon entering one of the many little temples contained in the monastery, we discovered a musical ceremony just beginning. When Kezang whispered to ask if we wanted to stay longer, we nodded, kneeling on the floor with “front row” seats to the chanting of monks and the playing of traditional instruments including long horns, propped on the floor. Clouds of incense perfumed the room. Magical. I would have loved to have a video to share, but no photographs are allowed inside Tiger’s Nest… and I’m glad to have been able to simply focus on the moment.

Our final night held a final treat; we spent the evening at a restored traditional farmhouse. Our hosts were a young couple with an adorable baby and a friendly cat. The home had been in his family for generations. We began our evening with a hot bath for two in an outdoor shed built for the purpose. Stones heated over a fire are placed in one end of two side-by-side wooden tubs filled with water and herbs. David and I entered the larger side of the shed where we undressed and got in the tubs. Then, our host on the outside added more stones to the far end of the tub beyond a wooden privacy wall and barrier that kept us from actually touching the stones while allowing the water to flow underneath. Periodically, he’d call out to see if we wanted more stones to raise the heat. With herbal steam filling the room, we luxuriated in the water, letting the heat ease muscles tired from the day’s climb to Tiger’s Nest.

Behind the privacy wall to our tub shed where our host added the hot stones to heat our baths

After our baths, we shared dinner with our hosts in the main room of the farmhouse, sitting on rugs on the floor. We began our meal with Ara, a cloudy homemade alcoholic drink made from rice. Our host and his wife spoke good English and the evening progressed as if among old friends. Kezang knew the couple and ate with us as well, foregoing the traditional clothes he’d worn throughout our stay in favor of sweatpants which he said he preferred to wear at home. It was a delightful way to end our stay in Bhutan.

My final takeaway: All in all, we really enjoyed our visit to Bhutan and are very glad we added it to our itinerary, especially since we were “in the neighborhood.” There were downsides, though. The curated nature of the visit required by the Bhutanese government does give the whole experience more of an “in a bubble” feel than we would have liked. Much of the sights in Bhutan are relatively new, too, the country only recently progressed from dirt roads and oxcarts. The expense is a little out of proportion to what you get considering the extremely cheap costs of things locally, but the effect of this on keeping out party-seeking backpackers as have flooded places like Thailand and Cambodia is to be commended. It’s easy to understand how a country would want to avoid some of the abuses and culturally-jarring effects of mass tourism. We were somewhat surprised at how much we were comfortably able to do in such a short stay. Given that we weren’t interested in weeks-long trekking, we’re happy with the scope of our visit. The only thing we’d really want to go back to see might be Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of the “Divine Madman” in Punakha District, an area we didn’t visit, but it’s not really enough of a pull by itself to take us back to Bhutan. We’ve met people who’ve fallen in love with Bhutan and gone several times. I don’t think that will be us. We had a great time, but we’ll probably leave it at that.

______________________

Practical info:

I’ve copied below the original itinerary and quote as provided to me by kimkim and Pelden when I first booked this tour. As I mentioned above, a few things were tweaked or changed on arrival per suggestions by Kezang and our own interests and time constraints, but our actual tour was fairly close to this. The biggest change was swapping a “monk village” at Dodeydra Buddhist University for a bit shorter but very scenic mountain hike to Tango Buddhist University monastery, which we really enjoyed . Also, Pelden encouraged me to let him book our plane tickets due to language and technical issues. Although he indicated that he would book our plane tickets for us at the same cost I saw online, he did charge a fee for that service after the fact, something not huge in the scope of the price, but a little disturbing in principle.:

Brief itinerary

Day	Date	Highlights
Day 1	Wednesday Mar 13, 2019	Welcome to Bhutan
Day 2	Thursday Mar 14, 2019	Treasures of the capital city
Day 3	Friday Mar 15, 2019	Thimphu easy hike to monk village and to Paro
Day 4	Saturday Mar 16, 2019	Bhutan’s Ultimate Highlight for the end

Detailed itinerary

1Day 1 – Mar 13, 2019

Welcome to Bhutan

The flight into Bhutan takes you close to the great Himalayas; offering dazzling scenic views of world’s highest glacial peaks.Whereyou’ll be greeted by Mt.Everest and Mt.Kanchenjunga, and our very own Mt.Jomo lhari and Mt. Jichu Drakey. As you enter the Paro valley, you will pass forested hills with the slivery Pa chu (Paro river) meandering down the valley below the Paro Dzong (fortress) and Ta Dzong (watchtower) on the hill above the town.

Upon arrival you’ll be received by our friendly professional guide who will help you settle into your comfortable vehicle, and then proceed to the capital city Thimphu. Enroute stop to visit the Tamchog Lhakang to take a short break and marvel at Bhutan’s fresh air and rich nature. Walk over the ancient heritage iron bridge reconstructed using original chain link from the famous Tibetan bridge builder TangThong Gyalpo back in the 15th century.

On arrival you will be taken to your hotel for a check-in and short rest.In the evening visit the Memorial Chorten Stupa which is a sacred shrine built in the memory of third king of Bhutan. You will enjoy welcome dinner at the best restaurant where you can enjoy authentic Bhutanese cuisines. Overnight in the resort.

Drive time 1 hour.Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

2Day 2 – Mar 14, 2019

Treasures of the capital city

Let’s enjoy a nice hike and appreciated the bountiful nature of Bhutan. Drive to Kuensel Phodrang where the gigantic 169ft statue of Buddha Dordenma overlooks Thimphu valley. The interior of the statue’s temple is easily one of the most beautiful and unique with thousands of other statues inside. Enjoy a panoramic view of Thimphu city from there. Walk into Kuenselphodrang Nature Park to hoist some flags to send some prayers out in the world. Continue on a beautiful 2-hour easy walk towards motithang. End the hike with a visit to the beautiful Changangkha monastery.

Continue to the Takin Reserve Center in the evening to see the national animal of Bhutan – the Takin and stroll over to the viewpoint that offers great views of Thimphu city. From here, continue to the colourful vegetable market where you’ll really experience local lifestyles where farmers from all around Bhutan will be seeling their produce. It is interesting to see what may seem to you as ‘weird vegetables and forest products’ that actually enriches the Bhutanese palate.

Continue to the Changlimithang Stadium to watch locals enjoying the national sport of Bhutan – Archery – which is played in a traditional style over a 120m long range and always filled with fun and festive moods.

In the evening we’ll have dinner at one of Thimphu’s best restaurants to enjoy authentic Bhutanese cuisines. Note: If you feel like, we can also explore a little but of Bhutan’s urban lifestyles by going to a Live music pub to sample some good craft beers from local breweries and enjoy the local music scene.Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

3Day 3 – Mar 15, 2019

Thimphu easy hike to monk village and to Paro

Visit the Institute of Traditional Medicine to talk to a practitioner here about Bhutanese traditional medical practices.

Drive to Dechenchholing and start the three hours Off-the-beaten track hike to Dodeydra Shedra. The hike is characterized by moderate ascents through Blue-pine forests. A picnic lunch will be served on the way. After the lunch spot, hikers will be rewarded by stunning views of Thimphu city. Currently there are around 170 monks studying and living in Dodeydra Buddhist University, including His Eminence Gyalwang Lorepa and His eminence Yongzin Rinpoche. After a picnic lunch, continue to the temple located at an altitude of 2800m. On the way back, the monks always engage in games like Football and Volleyball everyday as part of their physical education and guests who are interested can join the games and enjoy a game with the monks who are more than happy to welcome guests.

Drive to Paro around 3 in the afternoon. Visit Kyichu Lhakhang – believed to be the oldest Buddhist temple in Bhutan built during the 08th century and then continue to the National Museum to see some of the most treasured collections of arts, artefacts, textiles, stamps, statues, etc. I think one musuem on your tour is recommended.

Let’s go have some craft beers in in the country’s first brew pub that opened recently.

Drive time 1 hour.Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Dochula pass4Day 4 – Mar 16, 2019

Bhutan’s Ultimate Highlight for the end

We’ve saved the best of Bhutan for the last. Today you’ll experience Bhutan’s most valued attractions, and perhaps one of the major highlights of your trip. An excursion to the famous Taktshang monastery –translated as- Tiger’s nest monastery is also a good way to acclimatise before you start trekking. A two hours hike would reward you with a spectacular temple clinging on a 1000 feet cliff. The temple was built in 1692 by a prominent historical figure named Gyaltse Tenzin Rabgye whose reincarnation is now a young teenager and already a prominent figure in the clergy. Your guide will complement the experience with its story. On the way back stopover at Satsam Chorten which offers you nice views of mount Jomolhari.

In the afternoon, visit a farmhouse to soak in a herbal hot-stone bath which is known to be therapeutic and helps ailments related to joints and muscle aches, besides simply soothing your mind and body. Perfect to unwind and goes well with the Red Panda local beer. Here you can also learn hot to play BHutan’s national game, the archery. This is a complimentary value-added experience from Bhutan Travel Club without any hidden costs.

Farewell dinner at a great restaurant and proceed to your resort for the night.Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Pricing details

Bhutan quick and easy	$3,469.60
Service fee	$173
Total	$3,642.60 USD

Paid

Price includes

• Bhutan Tourism Royalty/Levy ($65 per day per person)
• Visa Fees ($40 per person)
• All necessary permit fees
• All transfers and sightseeing with entrance fees
• All meals and evening tea
• Drinking mineral water in the car
• All accommodations in 3-4 star hotels
• English-speaking tour leader and driver
• Excellent SUV vehicle
• Hot-stone bath (value-added with no extra cost)
• Airfare to Bhutan

Price excludes

• All personal expenses like laundry, telephone, tips, shopping expenses
• Spa Charges (except for the traditional hot-stone bath)
• Travel and Medical insurance

Dhulikel, Nepal

We weren’t interested in trekking, but I did want to see a little more of the Kathmandu Valley while in Nepal. Research narrowed it down to Nagarkot or Dhulikhel. Nagarkot is popular with tour companies, has more hotels and boasts the possibility of glimpsing Everest in the very far distance on a clear day. Since we planned to (and did) take a plane trip past Everest, that last selling point didn’t mean a lot to me, especially with the well-known vagaries of weather. Everything I read said that having an Everest view from a Nagarkot hotel was a rare thing. Dhulikhel, on the other hand, was the smaller, less touristy option, something that appeals to me. It also reportedly had pretty awesome Himalayan views itself plus a temple or two in walking distance and the very intriguing Namobuddha monastery a short drive away. (See top photo and below.)

We both paid for a flight past Mount Everest and saw it, just as clearly, on our flight from Kathmandu to Bhutan. Seeing Everest as a dot in the distance from Nagarkot just didn’t weigh much in my calculations. I liked that Dhulikhel is smaller and less touristy, and didn’t mind at all the small number of restaurants and hotels available in Dhulikhel. I found a small new boutique hotel with its own restaurant that sounded good and booked it via Agoda.

Getting to Dhulikhel from Kathmandu was another challenge. I debated using a local bus, so we made a trial run by the bus station to gauge just how hard it would be to find the right one. It didn’t take long in the small, but chaotically packed bus “station” lot to rule that out. The buses themselves looked passable if not enthusiasm-inspiring, but there were no signs at all in English on the buses or in the area and asking several people and bus drivers about buses to Dhulikhel got us nowhere. While I’m game to try local options, this was a situation where hiring a local driver seemed like a no-brainer expense (and hardly a budget-buster, in any event). Our hotel in Kathmandu could arrange a driver, but on a hunch, I called the hotel in Dhulikel and they offered an even better price (around $35, I think) and I liked having a driver who knew for sure where he was going.

Although the distance between our Kathmandu hotel and our Dhulikhel hotel was only 19.5 miles, the trip took over an hour. Most of the delay was due simply to traffic in Kathmandu. The road between the two was actually not bad and offered beautiful views of the Himalayas.

The really bad road–the worst of our three month travels–came when we hired a driver the following day to take us from our Dhulikhel hotel to the nearby Namobuddha Monastery. Wow. It’s hard to describe just how teeth-jarringly bad the road is. We felt sorry for our driver and the incredible wear the road must put on his car. The road distance is only 7 miles, but it took us over half an hour, most of that spent on the last stretch of road.

Our driver was friendly and spoke good enough English that we could commiserate about the wear and tear on his car from journeys such as this. The monastery turned out to be beautiful. The main temple area (photos forbidden) was elaborately stunning and the views breathtaking.

The following day, we walked through town past a sports field with the Himalayas looming beyond. We walked up meandering stairs to the hilltop Hindu temple of Kali where more spectacular views awaited. On the way up, we passed small groups of students who stopped us to ask for pens. We had no pens, but still had some colorful pencils we’d bought in Myanmar for just such occasions. The kids were very happy with the pencils, thanking us with big smiles. I wish we’d had more.

Practical info:

I found The Longest Way Home blog to be really useful in researching Nepal, especially my Nagarkot vs. Dhulikel dilemma. Many thanks to its author.

We stayed at Dhulikel Boutique Hotel. The hotel was new and our room spacious, stylish, clean, quiet and well-equipped. But, there wasn’t a view of the himalayas as I’d hoped. The best view was from the hotel’s outside dining, and that was across a valley into lesser mountains. Staff was friendly and great about booking us reasonably-priced drivers both between Kathmandu and Dhulikel and to the Namobuddha Monastery.

Kathmandu, Nepal

Kathmandu fabric market with a Durbar Square temple rising in the background

I spent the flight from Delhi to Kathmandu re-reading a funny-but-dire blog post I’d saved on my phone about all the horrors of the Kathmandu Airport: How I should have gotten a visa ahead of time instead of relying on the airport machines which are always broken, how the customs and immigration lines were horrible, how airport staff were rude, and generally what a miserable time we were going to have upon landing. Meanwhile, the flight was smooth, the airplane clean and new, the staff friendly, the food good (in the realm of economy seat airplane food) and the Nepalese beer free.

Happily, upon landing, we found the airport to be just as modern, clean, and efficient. All the visa machines worked just fine. We were first to them thanks to the blogger’s accurate description of the location, so had no wait to use the machines either. In no time, we were through passport control, had collected our luggage and were in a taxi. A great start.

I chose the Ambassador Garden Home in Thamel for our first nights in the city. Thamel is tourist central in Kathmandu and, while that may be a mixed bag in many cities, it seemed to be the best option for westerners staying in Kathmandu. Restaurants and shops abound around Ambassador Garden Home and traffic is limited so that only specially-permitted taxis could drive right up to the hotel.

We were greeted with a drink on arrival at the hotel and told to wait on a couch in the small lobby which opens onto a pretty courtyard that serves as the hotel’s dining room. Check-in documents were brought to us and we were soon in our standard room. The room was comfortable, if cozy, with a view onto the courtyard and a quirky shower. The hotel covers a few floors (no elevator) and is comfortably and tastefully decorated with the feel of staying in a period manor house. A large brass padlock served to lock the door when we left. As soon as we were settled, we headed out to explore the bustling streets.

It was a less than 20-minute walk from the hotel to Kathmandu’s Durbar Square at the historic center. Years after the devastating 1915 earthquake, we saw damage everywhere. There’s a $15US entrance fee to Durbar Square (and also just to pass through unless you have a resident’s pass) and we saw no point, happy to survey the square from the main road. Here and elsewhere we wandered in Kathmandu and beyond, the destruction, pollution and poverty was shocking despite all the reading I’d done before our trip. (I recommend Little Princes, written by Conor Grennan, an American volunteer and organizer at a Nepalese orphanage where many of the “orphans” still had parents from whom they’d been separated during the civil war.) Although there is an exotic beauty to much of it, we found that every bridge we crossed assailed us with the smell of an open sewer and smoke and smog pervaded the city.

On one long walk to the hilltop Hindu “Monkey Temple” or Swayambhu Maha Chaitya, we wore surgical facemasks to block pollution in the worst stretches. Climbing the steps to the hilltop stupa, we found fresher air, colorful worshipers and lovely views of the city.

Steps to the Hindu “Monkey Temple” or Swayambhu Maha Chaitya

On another day, we hired a driver to take us to Pashupatinath Temple and the Boudhanath Stupa. The temple complex at Pashupatinath is vast and we’d seen smoke from there when we drove past it from the airport. Although we could not go inside the main temple, we wandered the grounds on our own (declining the offers for paid guides). A festival of some sort was going on in one area and girls gave us free boxed lunches we were welcome to share, picnic-style, with others gathered. Having just eaten, we took ours back to our driver who was happy to have them. One of the would-be guides had told us the smoke in the distance was from funerals, but we wondered if we’d understood him correctly given the size and consistency of the smoke. Sure enough, we later came upon many funeral pyres set up along the river with bodies burning and more being brought in regularly. Shrouded bodies on pallets were carried on the shoulders of mourners to the sound of a horns, deep and resonant like blowing on a conch shell. People sat on a long bench behind the pyres observing the proceedings while vendors sold drinks and snacks. Across the river, more observers sat on large bleacher-like steps. We walked to a bridge that we were told separated the common folk from the VIP’s to look down on a pyre only yards below. We could see a foot sticking out from the flame and hear the sizzle. It was disturbing and fascinating at the same time. I took video and photos, but opted not to share them here. We were the only westerners there at the time, but no one seemed to mind or find our presence odd.

We drove from Pashupatinath to Boudhanath Stupa, one of the largest spherical stupas in Nepal. The stupa sits on the northeastern outskirts of Kathmandu and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We wanted to be there at sunset to witness sunset prayers as crowds circle the massive stupa, spinning prayer wheels, making offerings or simply walking clockwise. The experience was a highlight of our stay in Kathmandu.

Sunset at Boudhanath Stupa

We found Nepalese food tasty and very similar to Indian food. Ambassador Garden Home offered good food in their courtyard dining area. We liked Fusion Himalaya Restaurant so much we ate there twice. We enjoyed chatting with the friendly owner and even tried local Divine wine that was spiced and sweet. I read rave reviews about the momos (regional dumplings popular in Northern India, Nepal and Bhutan) at Fusion Himalaya so had to try them both fried and steamed. We had a more upscale dinner at Third Eye (Indian and Continental cuisine) just down Chaksibari Marg from Ambassador Garden Home.

From Kathmandu, we headed to Dhulikel to see a little more of the Kathmandu Valley. Dhulikel and the Namobuddha Monastery are up next.

Delhi Three Ways

We were in and out of Delhi three times on this trip. Given this, I wanted to try different areas and types of lodgings on each stay. I settled on the following: First up, was Hotel Bright a moderately-priced Indian business/tourist hotel right in Connaught Place, the large, arcaded shops at the colonial center of New Delhi. For a two-night return between Bhutan and Dharamshala, I chose the new Aloft Hotel in the modern Aerocity enclave near the airport. Finally, we used some free Hyatt nights for a stay in the elegant Hyatt Regency Delhi in the more removed southwestern part of the city. Each had their pros and cons and we enjoyed each in their own way. I’ll leave it to others to go in depth about Delhi and New Delhi (There’s lots out there.) and just touch here on a few highlights and useful bits.

Fortunately, we’d been prepared by TripAdvisor reviews for the eyebrow-raising entry path to Hotel Bright. After passing under the white-columned arcade of the outer ring of Connaught Place, we climbed a security guard-monitored flight of stairs to pass through an open area with a pile of abandoned couches and other junk. Graffiti on the wall proclaimed, “THIS PROPERTY BELONGS TO ME.” Just beyond this less-than-welcoming space, we opened the door to the pristine small lobby of Hotel Bright. Our windowless room was nicely decorated, if somewhat dated, clean, quiet and well-equipped. A simple included breakfast was delivered each morning. The location within the arcades of Connaught Place was excellent.

Connaught Place is a great central location with a myriad of high-priced-for-Delhi shops and restaurants. A stroll through the shady arcades of Connaught Place with pale skin will net you a never-ending supply of companions wanting to steer you into said shops and restaurants. Some people genuinely seemed to want to help or to just ask curious questions, but we remained on-guard for the ubiquitous scams and hustles. Mostly, it just got exhausting never being able to stop and look at anything without being descended upon.

We found a wonderful haven from the constant attention at Gurdwara Bangla Sahib, a massive and beautiful Sikh house of worship. The Gurdwara is a fifteen minute walk down Baba Kharak Singh Road from Connaught Place. The Sikhs at Gurdwara Bangla Sahib welcomed us warmly. We left our shoes at a cloakroom where a lady for some reason loved speaking Spanish with me when she heard I was from the U.S. After walking through cleansing water, we donned borrowed head gear (a scarf for me and a scaled-down turban for David) and entered the main temple to watch prayers (conveniently translated into English on an overhead screen) before circling the temple then heading outside to a sacred pool. With true Sikh hospitality, we were offered food and drink at stalls set up outside. Entrance to the temple is free and, in addition to the pond and courtyards, there’s a museum on site. I highly recommend a visit.

We walked twelve miles around colonial New Delhi our first full day there. The spring weather was sunny and warm, but lacking the heat we’d feared (and that would make an appearance by the time we made our third stop in the city). We enjoyed the walk which both puzzled and annoyed the non-stop parade of tuk tuks and taxis that rolled slowly beside us, trying to convince us to ride instead. We admired the elegant buildings along broad avenues and joined throngs of others at India Gate (lead photo).

We rode the relatively new Airport Express metro line out to the airport and were happy to find it air conditioned, clean, much faster than a taxi would have been given the horrific traffic, and not crowded at all. [The Shivaji stop on this line is very close to Gurdwara Bangla Sahib making it easy to visit on a layover. We also walked to this stop from Hotel Bright in Connaught Place to ride to the airport for 60 INR/pp (85¢ US).] We used this same line on our return to Delhi from Bhutan to ride one stop to the swank Aerocity complex and the Aloft Hotel. I highly recommend the Aloft Aerocity for short stays near the airport. The staff there are wonderful, the hotel chic, and the selection of shops and restaurants in the secured Aerocity center extensive. Security around the entire Aerocity enclave makes it an area apart from the rest of Delhi. It’s comfortable and safe, but in no way “authentic” Delhi, nor does it try to be. Still, it was a pleasant, pampered stop with an easy return to the airport for our flight to Dharamshala in northern India. Since the baggage allotment for our intra-India flight was a mere 15kg, we bought a cheap duffel in Bhutan and off-loaded things into that and stored it at Aloft, free of charge. When we returned to Delhi, we just hopped the metro to Aerocity, picked up our bag, then had the hotel call us an Uber to the Hyatt Regency. (Our phones still would not connect to Uber in Delhi.)

The Hyatt Regency Delhi is vast and elegant, but the location is removed from most sights, restaurants, and shops. The hotel itself has several nice, but expensive restaurants and we blew any “deal” we had using our free nights to stay there on a wildly expensive, but excellent, Chinese dinner at The China Kitchen. We discovered budget fare the next day when we ventured out into the rabbit warren of little streets that extend behind the hotel away from the main highway. We’d have surely been lost without Google Maps and it might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but we had fun exploring and found both a cute sandwich shop and a small grocery store (Anil Super Shopee). We also discovered many popular outdoor eateries amongst the tech shops in the complex just east of the Hyatt.

The high-speed Gatimaan train from Agra to Delhi

Waiting on the Gatimaan Express at Agra Cantt train station

We wanted to make the trip from Agra to Delhi on our own, so I began researching Indian trains. Right away, the relatively new Gatimaan Express train caught my eye. The Gatimaan Express makes the trip from Agra to Delhi (and vice versa) once per day in each direction. The Gatimaan actually goes beyond Agra to Gwalior and Jhansi, but it seems largely geared towards people in Delhi wanting to see Agra and the Taj Mahal on a day trip. The Gatimaan leaves Delhi’s Hazrat Nizamuddin station at 8:10 am IST and returns from Agra in the evening at 5:50pm.

Whenever train travel is on my radar, The Man in Seat 61 is one of my first Internet go-to sites. As always, I found a wealth of information on the site. But, I also found some concerns. Stories of problems abounded: with the Indian Railways website, with using non-Indian addresses and credit cards, with fake security guards at the train stations, with luggage hijacked by porters, with train station taxi scams, and on and on. Oh, India.

I’m happy to report that I had no problems creating an account directly with Indian Railways or with buying our tickets online with an American credit card. The Man in Seat 61 had suggested an easier-to-use intermediary agency, but if my experience is any indication, Indian Railways has ironed out the kinks. I received our tickets promptly by email and was asked to take a screen shot of them and not to print out the tickets “unless extremely necessary.” I booked the highest class (Executive Class) because at 2990 INR ($41.93 US) for both of us, why not? Seats become available 120 days in advance and reservations are necessary. Popular routes do book up on the high-speed trains. I calendared the day tickets were to open and booked ASAP. This is one of those situations where planning makes things a lot easier and cheaper.

Despite warnings, we had no issues at Agra Cantt station. It’s a busy place, but it’s India so pretty much everywhere is busy. The train was on time and our car was comfortable if not luxurious. We were served a hot meal that was tasty and filling if not gourmet. The ride itself was smooth and uneventful. I enjoyed chatting with an extended family of Indians living overseas in France and Spain who’d returned to India to celebrate a major anniversary of the matriarch and patriarch of the clan.

Executive Class dinner on the Gatimaan Express from Agra to Delhi

At speeds of 99mph, travel on the Gatimaan Express from Agra to Delhi takes 1 hour 40 minutes and reaches Delhi’s Hazrat Nizamuddin station at 7:30pm, which means we arrived after dark. Thankfully, we heeded warnings and had a good grip on our luggage as the train pulled into the station. Sure enough, would-be porters streamed aboard, blocking passengers attempting to exit and trying to wrest our luggage away from us. It took some pretty harsh refusals to get them to accept rejection and get out of the way.

Our next challenge came in getting a ride to our hotel. I’d read many warnings about taxis in Delhi and a favorite scam whereby passengers are told the street on which their hotel sits is blocked for a festival so the driver will have to take them somewhere else. Basically, passengers have ended up getting “kidnapped” and either pay a hefty sum to be returned to their original destination or coerced into using the services of scam “travel agents” and different hotels. (The 20-something son of the lady seated behind me on the train had a friend who’d endured this particular scam as well.) My original plan had been to use a transfer service offered by the Gatimaan Express, but the link to that service on the Indian Railways site was broken and no one on the train had heard of it. My back up plan was Uber which had worked like a champ in Jaipur. No such luck in Delhi. In our three stops in Delhi, Uber never worked. The app would find a ride, say it was attempting to book it, then fail to do so. Great.

Eventually, we resigned ourselves to the taxi/tuk tuk gamble and braved the throng waiting at the front of the station. After some haggling, we were led to a taxi operated by a taciturn Sikh who delivered us to our hotel in Connaught Place with no hassle save for the perpetual Delhi traffic.

Note: Per the email I received with our tickets, ” E-Ticket can be cancelled online till preparation of charts (which is normally 4 to 6 hours before the scheduled departure of the train from the originating stations. (For trains starting up to 12 noon the chart preparation is usually done on the previous night)) OR 4 hours before the scheduled departure of boarding the train in case of confirmed ticket OR 30 minutes before the scheduled departure of boarding the train in case of RAC/WL whichever is earlier.”

Agra: Agra Fort and a homestay

Viewing the Taj Mahal from the Agra Fort

We arrived in bustling Agra in the afternoon after spending the first part of the day touring our way from Jaipur via Chand Baori and Fatehpur Sikri. Our driver threaded his way through the jumble of vehicles, pedestrians, cows and trash as we headed straight to Agra Fort. Hurrying to meet a waiting guide, we didn’t even have time to drop off our luggage.

A UNESCO World Heritage site, Agra Fort was the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal Dynasty until 1638, when the capital moved to Delhi. The semi-circular fort occupies 94 acres and sits behind 70′ walls on the Yamuna River. Part of the fort is occupied by active military so tourists only see a small portion of the huge complex. From the main tourist courtyard, we could see soldiers atop the wall separating us from the military area.

Agra fort is impressive with multiple royal residences, courtyards, massive gateways and public buildings, but for us, the highlight was our surprise first glimspe of the Taj Mahal 2.5km away. What a moment! (The ladies in the top photo above are enjoying the same view.)

Probably the most beautiful portion of Agra Fort is the Musamman Burj, the elaborate marble apartments of Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal. Shah Jahan spent the last years of his life under house arrest here, held prisoner by his son, Aurangzeb. The story goes that his son imprisoned him to prevent him from bankrupting the country by building a proposed black marble twin to the Taj Mahal as a burial place for himself. According to legend, Shah Jahan envisioned his black tomb sitting across from the white tomb of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Shah Jahan lay on his death bed in the Musamman Burj gazing at the Taj Mahal.

After leaving Agra Fort, our driver drove us the short distance to Coral Court Homestay, our lodging for the next two nights. I’d read great things about this homestay, liked the idea of a family-owned homestay, and the location was ideal, within walking distance to the Taj Mahal.

The first turn onto the Coral Court’s street was less than encouraging: a dirt road, free roaming livestock. Our guide and driver seemed a little concerned when we pulled up to the locked gate. This turned out to be “Coral House Homestay,” belonging to a relative of our host, but not affiliated. The owner sent us a few doors down to Coral Court Homestay. Our guide went in and came back, much more satisfied, with someone to help with our luggage.

Despite the dirt road and cow, the Coral Court Homestay street and neighborhood turned out to be fine. (And it’s a short walk to the paved road and wide sidewalks leading to the Taj Mahal entrance.)

We were shown to a cheerful, turquoise-walled waiting area and offered refreshment while we filled out the necessary paperwork. Then, we were led through the dining room and upstairs to our room. We ended up really enjoying Coral Court Homestay. The delicious vegetarian food was made in the kitchen adjoining the dining room and served at communal tables. We made friends at dinner with two Frenchwomen from Asnières-sur-Seine and laughed when we found out we’d all stayed at the same wonderful hotel in Jaipur. (I blogged about Pearl Palace Heritage Hotel earlier and really recommend it for both amazing design and great value.) The rooms (we tried two due to availability issues when I booked) were comfortable and spotless. The walk from Coral Court Homestay to the Taj Mahal was easy and down a wide, limited-access road that kept the usual throngs of hangers-on blissfully at bay. There are several restaurants and shops along the way, too. We enjoyed good, reasonably-priced Thali lunches at two of them.

The rooftop area at Coral Court Homestay really made it for us, and we even ended up skipping a final wander before catching our evening train to Delhi, preferring to lounge on the roof and watch nearby neighborhood life. One evening, David hammed it up with kids playing in a courtyard below, one boy flexing his muscles and waiting for David to copy him before laughing and striking a new pose for David to mimic. Another group of older boys and young men were occupied shoeing large flocks of pigeons attempting to roost inside open buildings. The white domes of the Taj Mahal gleamed in the golden sunset.

Rooftop view from Coral Court Homestay in Agra

It’s funny, I’d expected to like Jaipur more than Agra, to find the former more elegant and the latter more rough-and-tumble, but I came away really liking Agra and actually preferring our time there. I’m sure a lot had to do with Coral Court Homestay and its neighborhood.

Practical info:

Agra Fort is open sunrise to sunset. The entry fee is 550INR/adult ($7.67). We found our guide to be informative and useful, but a guide isn’t necessary, especially with a guidebook, info on cell phone, etc.

At Coral Court Homestay, we paid 4718.82INR ($65.83 US) for a “King Suite” and 2799.10INR ($39.05 US)for a “Deluxe Double Room.” Both prices include goods and services tax. I booked using Booking.com through Topcashback for a rebate. (I get extra cashback if you use this link and you can get $10. As of today, I’ve gotten $833.40 from Topcashback on hotels and purchases I would have made anyway. I’ve got more ready to claim and more beyond that pending confirmation. It’s an easy and fun way to save a little cash.)

Agra: the Taj Mahal at last!

Admiring the Taj Mahal from the shade of the southern portico

Our guide from the previous day’s visit to Agra Fort met us at Coral Court Homestay to walk with us to the nearby entrance to the Taj Mahal. Visiting the Taj was a highlight of this 3-month travel extravaganza, but I worried a little that the iconic landmark would be a let down after the countless images I’d seen over my lifetime. I needn’t have worried. The Taj Mahal was spectacular and we loved every minute of our leisurely visit on a gorgeous day.

View of the huge gateway leading to the Taj from the grassy courtyard just inside the main entrance gate

We opted to skip sunrise at the Taj, something that’s touted a lot, but which sounded to me like a gimmick…and I just plain didn’t want to get up that early. Besides, we’d put off our visit to the Taj until this year so that we’d see it just after the major cleaning that had its domes covered in purifying mud for much of 2018. I had no particular desire to see it turned pinkish by the rising sun. I wanted to see its freshly-restored gleaming white. The choice turned out to be a good one. We chatted with fellow guests at Coral Court Homestay who got up for a sunrise visit and said they were disappointed to find the entrance queue long and the Taj Mahal grounds crowded. They said it was pretty, though. We arrived around 10am to find only a short line and sparse crowds. And the Taj a brilliant white in the sunshine. The April weather was ideal, too: warm in the sun, cool in the shade. Fantastic!

Just beyond the gateway shown in the previous photo

Our guide, paid for and included in the Jaipur to Agra drive and touring we’d hired from Pushpendra (see my earlier post), had tried to talk us out of using his services at the Taj. We’d arrived too late from Jaipur the day before and had only been able to tour Agra Fort, having to put off the Taj Mahal for today. Despite the guide’s obvious reluctance (Why work another day when he could pocket the pay and do nothing?), he turned up to walk us to the Taj then provided cheerful and informative service. He delighted in posing us for what seemed like dozens of touristy photos and tended to speed along when I wanted to just stop and gape and take my own photos. We were glad we insisted on using him, but also happy to send him on his way after we toured inside the mausoleum so we could just stroll and sit and admire the incredible beauty around us.

We mounted stairs to the vast raised plaza where the Taj Mahal mausoleum sits, flanked by two mosques (one in use and the other primarily for symmetry and show). Separate tickets were required to enter the mausoleum and we joined a short line to file through. Photographs weren’t allowed inside the mausoleum where two replica cenotaphs sit in an ornate upper room of intricately carved marble and semi-precious stones. The real sarcophagi are in a lower room at garden level.

Back outside, we explored the wide terrace with its view of the river below and park across the way. Large flocks of black kites, eagle-like birds of prey, swirled and glided around the towers and central dome of the Taj. Indian tourists in an array of colorful regional clothes added to the overwhelming beauty of the place.

Black kites (birds of prey) circling a Taj Mahal minaret

Colorful locals near one of the identical mosques that flanks the Taj Mahal

View from a mosque flanking the Taj Mahal

After a quick visit to the mosque, we bid good-bye to our guide and set out to explore the square gardens with their central fountain and a small museum on the west side of the complex. We ended up strolling a long red stone portico that joined with the grand entrance at the south end of the gardens. Exhibits depicting historic and architectural sites around India lined the portico. We enjoyed browsing the exhibits, then gave over to the ultimate pleasure of the place: just sitting in the shade admiring the Taj Majal.

Red stone portico connecting to the grand gateway leading to the Taj Mahal. The *exhibits depict architectural and historical sites around India*.

Practical info:

Taj Mahal tickets are available at both the Western Gate and the Eastern Gate (where we entered) from one hour before Sunrise up to 45 Minutes before Sunset. Tickets are 1100INR ($15.34 US) for foreigners plus another 200INR ($2.79) to enter the mausoleum. There’s a 50INR (70¢ US) discount on the general ticket for buying online. We found the guide informative and helpful, but not a necessity. Allow plenty of time just to bask in the beauty. The Taj Mahal is not the place to rush.

En route from Jaipur to Agra: Chand Baori and Fatehpur Sikri

We opted to hire a driver to take us from Jaipur to Agra, splurging a bit for an SUV so David could stretch his legs. I wanted to make two stops en route: Chand Baori, an ancient step well and Fatehpur Sikri, a town founded as the capital of Mughal Empire in 1571 by Emperor Akbar and later completely abandoned in 1610.

Chand Baori is located in a small village a short distance off Hwy 21 that connects Jaipur and Agra. We’d heard mixed accounts of the road in India, but this stretch of Hwy 21 is modern, wide and in excellent shape. The road out to the village of Abhaneri where the step well is located is good, too. Our driver dropped us off just at the entrance of Chand Baori, parking to wait for us at a market set up across the street. Surprised to find free entrance, we ignored the many guides hawking their services and entered to stroll around the 100 ft. deep well, admiring its 13 story depth and 3500 steps. Architectural stone artifacts lined porticos around the well. The oldest parts of the well date to the 8th century, but upper parts date back to the Mughal period in the 18th century. Chand Baori has appeared in several movies, including the The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel.

The turn-off to Abhaneri and Chand Baori is only about a third of the distance between Jaipur and Agra, so we settled back in to continue our journey. Our driver stopped at a large, mostly empty, but tourist-oriented spot for lunch and a bathroom break before heading on to the main attraction before Agra: Fatehpur Sikri.

Fatehpur Sikri is not far from Agra, maybe 5/6 of the distance we traveled from Jaipur and just off Hwy 21. There’s a lot to see here and we could have spent a lot more time, but I was focused on the red stone palace complex where Emperor Akbar built three palaces which legend claims to have been for each of his three favorite wives, one Hindu, one Muslim and one Christian. Architecture in the palace complex is an intriguing mix of the three cultures.

The minute we pulled into the parking lot, we were approached by tuk tuk drivers wanting to take us to the palace complex which is not within walking distance from the parking lot. I’d read that there was a cheap shuttle bus and didn’t like the idea of putting ourselves in the hands and vehicle of a stranger, so we declined and made our way along a wide sidewalk past several booths selling souvenirs to a parking lot with buses. We found the shuttle which was about to leave. We boarded with a crowd of tourists, asking about a ticket, but being waved on. We descended in a similar melee and were once again waved on by what appeared to be the guide for a tour group. Since no one would sell us a ticket, we got a free ride to the nearby palace. We weren’t going to raise a fuss over that so moved on to buy an entrance ticket to the palace complex.

We entered into a vast paved courtyard, a kingfisher bird perched on the wall making an iconic adornment to the elegant buildings. Again, we were approached by would-be guides, but plaques in English offered ample explanation for us, so we declined. The first building we came to was the Diwan-i-Khas or Hall of Private Audience, a square building with a famous octagonal central pillar carved with bands of geometric and floral designs. It supports a circular platform for Emperor Akbar, which is connected to each corner of the building on the first floor, by four stone walkways. Here the emperor listened to representatives of different religions discuss their faiths and gave private audience.

Carved central pillar in the Hall of Private Audience at Fatehpur Sikri

We wandered the complex exploring palaces and treasury buildings, pools and courtyards. We could only see a portion of the hilltop complex in the time we had, but we saw a lot and enjoyed the visit. With Agra and a visit to the Agra Fort yet ahead, we decided to head back to our driver. Things didn’t go as smoothly on the way back and we waited 15 minutes or so for the next shuttle bus back to the parking area. We had to pay this time, too, but the price was negligible.

Practical info:

Chand Baori was free when we went there, but I have read that the Indian government plans to start charging a 200INF ($2.80 US) entry fee for foreigners.

Entrance to Fatehpur Sikri is 550INR ($7.70 US) for foreigners. It is open sunrise to sunset. The shuttle bus from the parking lot is 10INR (14¢ US). The ride is 5 minutes or less. You could walk, but it’s a fair distance, uphill and hot. Take or buy water.

The driver I hired was supposed to be “Pushpendra” with Jaipertraveling.com, highly recommended on Tripadvisor. It turned out that he sent another driver. I booked well in advance and Pushpendra was very accommodating when PayPal would not let me pay a requested deposit in rupees. He took my reservation on faith, letting me pay on arrival. While that was good, communication was lacking when we got to Jaipur and I had some concerns although our driver showed up as promised. Also, there was some confusion as a guide was promised, but that turned out to be a guide we would meet in Agra for the Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal. Our driver spoke virtually no English which caused some confusion about the day’s plans and we had no guide for either Chand Baori or Fatehpur Sikri although that turned out to be no big deal at either place. The SUV and driver were not cheap by Indian standards at 8000INR ($112 US), but the driver was good and the vehicle new, spacious and immaculate. The non-stop drive alone is 4h30 and our driver waited patiently for us at three long stops, then had to drive back to Jaipur. Also, this included fuel and the guide in Agra, who ended up coming back the next day to take us to the Taj. Pushpendra later apologized for the communication gaps, and in the end, all was very satisfactory.

Jaipur and the Amber Fort by tuk tuk

We hired driver Abès for a full-day of Jaipur and environs by tuk tuk. David and I are both fans of tuk tuks. We enjoy the exhilarating feel of being in the thick of things, weaving through traffic, eye-to-eye with those in other vehicles, then enjoying the breeze when our driver hits a straightaway. I try not to focus on the fact there are no seatbelts much less airbags or even walls in these vehicles. They’re fun! Since tuk tuks are vehicles of southeast Asia, it’s often hot, but surprisingly not as much as you might expect. With the temperate springtime weather in Jaipur, we strongly preferred tuk tuks to taxis. And, boy, are they cheap.

Abès and his brother’s tuk tuk, our chariot for the day

We started our day early, heading back to the Pink City to visit the City Palace. Also known as Maharajah Sawai Man Singh Museum, the City Palace is much more extensive than Hawa Mahal (the Palace of the Winds) and houses artifacts including textiles, clothing, weapons and decorative arts. The palace was built between 1729 and 1732. Guards in period costumes stand watch at the many ornate gates and doorways in the extensive palace. There’s also a restaurant on-site. Entry to the City Palace is expensive by Indian standards at 700INR ($9.83 US) pp. There was even a special visit to the Royal Apartments on offer for 3500INR ($49.15). Photos of the apartments were lovely, but we declined. We spent an hour or so in the palace.

After the City Palace, we left the Pink City to stop at the royal mausoleums. We were the only tourists visiting these beautiful white structures, a peaceful break after the bustle of the Pink City.

Next up was our major destination for the day, the Amber Fort. (See top photo.) Also known as the Amer Fort or Amer Palace, the fort sits on a hill 11 km outside of Jaipur. Construction began on the Amber Fort in 1592 on the remains of an 11th-century fort. The Amber Fort and six other hill forts in Rajasthan were declared UNESCO World Heritage sites in 2013. Its architecture–consisting of four courtyards and gardens plus palaces and halls made of sandstone and marble–is a mix of Rajput (Hindu) and Mughal (Islamic) styles. This extensive palace and fort was the seat of power in Rajasthan until the capital was moved to Jaipur in 1727. Entry to the Amber Fort is 550INR ($7.71 US) for foreigners and 25INR for Indians. For students, it’s 25/10INR.

Traffic en route to the Amber Fort was interesting.

The Amber Fort is definitely more a palace than a fort here.

After spending almost two hours in the Amber Fort, we headed back to Jaipur for a quick stop to view the beautiful Jal Mahal (“Water Palace”) in the middle of the Man Sagar Lake. Then, Abès insisted we make a few shopping stops, assuring us there would be no pressure to buy. Right. We were skeptical, but the stops at a textile factory and a rug maker turned out to be interesting and there really wasn’t much pressure. But, David –who’d never been treated to the roll-out-the-rugs routine– was smitten by a large silk rug… so now we homeless vagabonds have yet another rug to add to our collection of rolled-up rugs. Oh well, the price was right and he’s a happy man (and he does unroll it in a back room when we’re at my parents’).

Block printing cloth in a textile factory

Our last stop for the day was the Hanuman Temple. Hanuman is the Hindu monkey god and we find his temples are usually interesting… and full of monkeys. We thought we were heading to the famous monkey temple outside of Jaipur, Galta Ji. And it turns out we did, sort of. Abes dropped us off at the base of a long uphill walk past many monkeys and other animals, including a deformed cow with a “twin” growing out of its rear which we were told was holy. We passed hovels with open walls where rats ran over and around beds. Residents came out to put vermillion on my forehead. I resisted at first, but finally gave in to a little girl who expected nothing from me. All along the way, monkeys slept, played, fought and fed on offerings left for them by pilgrims.

Beginning our walk up to the Hanuman Sun Temple. So much going on in this photo.

Woman at the entry to ruins along the way to the Sun Temple

At the top of our climb was a small temple with a sweeping view over Jaipur. Monkeys lounged on the walls around it, but the building was nothing like the photos I’d seen of Galta Ji with its large pool. I found out later this was the Sun Temple, a part of the larger Galta Ji complex which was another 2 km away along some path we never saw. Oh well, this temple was uncrowded and we were welcomed by a monk and encouraged to pray. We paid our respects to the god and enjoyed the view. This little temple was a fascinating stop in its own right and we were happy to call it a day.

The Pink City of Jaipur, India

Jaipur’s Pink City viewed from the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds)

I was excited that Jaipur was our first stop in India after Myanmar. After last year’s visit to the west coast of India, it was time to do the famous Golden Triagle: Delhi, Jaipur and Agra. Flying from Yangon to Jaipur (via Bangkok) meant we could travel just two legs of the triangle since we planned to fly out of Delhi to Kathmandu.

I’d read about Jaipur for decades, dreaming over photos of the fabled Pink City, walled forts and luxurious hotels. Since Jaipur was just one stop on a 3-month odyssey, I skipped the expensive iconic hotels and found a wonderful bit of luxury at a very affordable price at the Pearl Palace Heritage Hotel. The Pink City and all the other wonders of Jaipur still awaited, though.

Our flight arrived at Jaipur in the wee hours, so we slept in before heading to my first must-see, the Pink City. Expectations exceeded reality a bit when our tuk tuk dropped us off just inside one of the main gates of this old section of town.

Yes, there are lovely old buildings, but there’s also a lot that’s run down and strewn with trash. We wandered the sidewalks in front of the clothing section, admiring the brightly colored items on display, but quickly being reminded of a major downside of India: It’s impossible to stop without being swarmed by vendors and various “helpful” sorts. It can be exhausting. It’s frustrating, especially when we might consider shopping if only we could be left alone. I know it’s cultural and we find it many places, but India raises it to a new level. I laugh that I need to gird my loins and brace myself before heading out in India. The noise, the crowds, the squalor, the colors, the smells…and the beauty. It’s easy to reach sensory overload fast.

I had to snap this photo quickly before the next vendor descended.

We walked towards the famous Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), opting to get lunch at the rooftop Wind View Café across the street before heading to the palace itself. The simple meal with an awesome view of the palace and bustling main street below was tasty and cheap.

The palace was built in 1799 and designed to look like Lord Krishna’s crown. With its shallow rooms, the building seems little more than a facade behind the many-windowed front where royal ladies would come catch glimpses of the market streets. (See top photo.) There’s little furniture, only a few displays, and not much in the way of historical explanation, but we had fun exploring and the courtyards and terraces are extensive, offering views over the city and the mountains and fortifications beyond. The graceful architecture and elaborate carved and painted designs on doors and ceilings provide the artwork on display.

View from Hawa Mahal. The sloped structure in the distance is the observatory, Jantar Mantar.

Hawa Mahal is connected by a passage to the City Palace, but the entrances are separate. We ran out of time to do the second palace, so saved that for our next day’s explorations. We wandered more of the fascinating and overwhelming streets of the Pink City before heading home to Pearl Palace Heritage Hotel.

Pink City street scene. The man in the foreground is making pots.

Practical info:

Entrance to Hawa Mahal is 200INR for foreign tourists and 25INR for foreign students. For Indians, the fee is 50/5INF. The palace is open 9:00am-4:30pm daily. The Hawa Mahal web site lists the prices as substantially less, but I’m giving the prices actually posted and charged at the palace. There is also a composite ticket for seven sites available, but it didn’t include the City Palace so we passed on that. To enter Hawa Mahal, go around the left side of the building (as you face the front), then turn right at the first pedestrian street to find the entrance.